Wednesday, May 26, 2004


Fish and Old Inca Trails

Still no Wanpi. Went fishing today with Tito, his dad and Arturo. I caught two! Brilliant! It was a really interesting day, as after fishing on the beach for a while, we all climbed a huge rock/cliffy protuberance. It is absolutely massive on top, and has a real otherworldly feel with layers of different coloured rock, and swirling sea mist in the higher places. Tito claims the winding paths are thousands of years old, from previous civilisations, and indeed some appear to be cobbled, quite incredible in such a desolate location. The top of the rock was an ancient Inca burial site, and the cobbled path was laid for a king’s journey there. We walked about four kilometres along the cliff edge, stopping to fish off it every now and then. Didn’t catch anything from up there though; the waves crash into the cliff edge with such ferocity that I can’t think it would be an attractive hang-out for many delicious sea creatures. About midway along the cliff edge is a vast semi-circular bite. It is called the Media Luna (Half Moon) beach, and is surrounded on all sides by 200 metres of intensely forboding cliff. Apparently there are paths substantial enough for people to get down to camp there, and indeed there were several large-scale messages (Juan luvs Claudia 4eva) and pictures in the sand to attest to human visitors. Rather intriguing. We finished our walk in the town of Port Eten, where we bought some hot-from-the-oven vanilla buns and munched them contentedly on the cramped bus journey home.

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